Monday, January 31, 2011

Source List

Designer Bio Assignment


Elsa Schiaparelli
(1890-1973)

Who?
·  Elsa Schiaparelli was an Italian born fashion designer raised in Rome (Spens, 2004).
·  Attended a strict Roman Catholic school (Spens, 2004).
·  She worked as a scriptwriter and translator and even wrote poetry (Rhodes, 2011).
·  Married a Polish count named William de Wendt and had a daughter in 1919
·  Divorced in 1920 and eventfully moved to Paris
·  Was known as a creative, artistic, and flamboyant designer

Where and When?
·  Schiaparelli was born in 1890 in Rome, Italy
·  Moved to Paris in 1923
·  Although Schiaparelli was born in Italy, she became renown in Paris and would eventually open a boutique and couture house in Paris
·  She met designer Paul Poiret in Paris who introduced Schiaparelli to couture (Rhodes, 2011).
·  She became prominent in the 1920’s till the after the Second World War
·  Moved temporarily to the US during WWII
·  Died in Paris in 1973 (Rhodes, 2011).

What?
·  Her first famous creation was a black sweater with a bow motif
·  Famous for her collaborations with surrealism artists such as Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau
·  Was the first to introduce things such as: the colour Hot Pink, coloured zippers (Rhodes, 2011).
·  Introduced fashion shows with ramps, lights and music (Sanderson, 2008).
·  Brought fashion to the masses by introducing off-the-rack wear (Sanderson, 2008).
·  Designed clothes for famous celebrities such as the Duchess of Windsor and actress Katherine Hepburn (Sanderson, 2008).



·  After the closing of her couture house in 1954, Schiaparelli retired as a designer and produced perfumes until her death in 1973


 
How?
·  Schiaparelli had always been artistic and used fashion as her medium
·  Began designing gowns in 1915 with help from Paul Poiret (Rhodes, 2011).
·  Never learned to sew, but hired seamstresses and couturiers to interpret her designs (Spens, 2004).
·  After her success, Schiaparelli was able to open her own shop in Paris in 1927 (Rhodes, 2011).
·  Collaborated with artists and produced their work on her designs such as the Lobster Dress with Salvador Dali
·  Worked with fabrics houses to produce unusual prints and materials (Rhodes, 2011).
Why?
·  Schiaparelli once quoted: “Poverty forced me to work, and Paris gave me a liking for it.” (Sanderson, 2008).
·  Being artistic, creative and outrageous, Schiaparelli may have used fashion as an outlet to express her creativity
·  She was not only interested in fashion, but in art as well. She never learned to sew (Spens, 2004).
·  Her designs were always either shocking or entertaining to the public (Rhodes, 2011).
·  After the Depression, Schiaparelli felt that fashion needed more excitement (Rhodes, 2011).
·  Schiaparelli believed that women should dare to be different (Rhodes, 2011).
·  Raised in a high ranking family, her creativity was influenced by rebelling against her strict upbringing (Rhodes, 2011).
·  She tried to empower women through their clothing and believed they can gain independence and equality (Rhodes, 2011).
·  Being a single mother struggling financially in the beginning, Schiaparelli may be trying to empower women through her designs


Sunday, January 30, 2011

Schiaparelli Quick Facts

  • She first worked as a scriptwriter and translator from 1919-1920
  • She became prominent in the late 1920's
  • Opened the House of Schiaparelli from 1928-1954
  • Opened a branch in London in 1933
  • Introduced the "Hot Pink" colour, coloured zippers and the wrap dress 
  • Was the first to introduce fashion shows with ramps, music and lights
  • Her famous clients included: the Duchess of Windsor, heiress Daisy Fewlloes, actresses Katherine Hepburn, Marlene Dietrich
  • Volunteered for the French War effort in the US during WWII
  • After the end of WWII, Schiaparelli began launching fragrances called: Shocking, Sleeping, Le Roi Soleil
  • Time magazine stated that  Schiaparelli's designs were easy to copy by other dress factories
  • Died in Paris on November 13, 1973
 Evening Coat (Jean Cocteau collaboration)
 1949 Collection

Schiaparelli Designs

Lobster Dress (Salvador Dali collaboration)
Evening Jacket
Shoe Hat

Schiaparelli's Profile

Elsa Schiaparelli is a renown fashion designer who was born in Italy. She is most famous for her outrageous designs that were influenced by surrealism and artists like Man Ray and Marcel Duchamp.

Born to a wealthy family in Italy, she was creative and flamboyant even as a child. Around 1913, Elsa met and married William de Wendt in London and had a daughter named Gogo in 1919. The marriage ended in divorce in 1920 and Elsa became a single mother.

Eventually Elsa traveled to Paris and met famous fashion designer Paul Poiret. She opened her own boutique in 1927 called the Rue de la Paix. With no sewing experience, Elsa employed seamstresses to create her designs. Her first famous design was inspired by an American friend which involved a black sweater with a large bow motif. They were well received and launched the beginning of her success.

Elsa became famous for her original designs. They were eccentric and drew a lot of attention. Her greatest fashion rival in Paris was Coco Chanel who's designs were conservative and minimalist; a contrast to Elsa's flamboyant and outrageous designs.

In addition to design, Elsa was recognized as an artist. She included artist Jean Cocteau's drawing on an evening cape. Elsa's famous "Lobster dress"  was a collaboration with artist Salvador Dali and the Surrealist movement. Her interest in art and innovation set her apart from other fashion designers. Elsa also introduced "off the rack wear" so that her clothes were available to everyone and not just the upper class. Over time, her designs began to focus on comfort rather than couture. When World War II began in 1939, Elsa moved and continued her designs in America.

After the end of World War II, Elsa's designs were no longer popular and other designers such as Christian Dior was taking over the fashion scene in Paris. She would eventually retire from design and began selling perfumes until her death 1973.